Goth Jewelry Guide: Silver, Symbols and How to Wear It

Goth jewelry is where a black outfit gets its personality. The same black dress or band shirt reads totally differently with a velvet choker and a cameo than with spiked cuffs and a stack of skull rings. This guide covers which metals are worth buying, what the classic symbols mean, and how to wear it all without looking like you emptied a jewelry box over your head (unless that's the look, which is also valid).

Start with the metal

Your jewelry has to survive sweaty clubs, mosh pits and being slept in by accident. Here's how the common metals hold up.

• Sterling silver. The classic. It looks right with almost every goth style, can be polished forever and holds detail well, so it's perfect for skulls, filigree and engraved rings. It tarnishes, but that dark patina in the grooves is part of the charm.
• Stainless steel (316L). The best value for everyday wear. It's tough, doesn't tarnish and is usually fine for sensitive skin. Great for chains, spikes and chunky rings.
• Pewter. Heavy and detailed, and a lot of classic fantasy and gothic pendants are made from it. Check that it's lead-free and nickel-free.
• Antique brass and gold tones. These fit Victorian, romantic and whimsigoth outfits beautifully. Old gold with black lace is a whole mood.
• Cheap mystery metal. Fine for a costume or a one-night look. If it turns your skin green, that's copper, and if it makes you itch, it's probably nickel.

If you have pierced ears, stick to titanium, surgical steel or solid silver for anything that goes through skin.

The classic symbols and what they mean

You don't need a reason to wear a bat. But it's fun to know where the symbols come from.

Crosses

Ornate crosses have been part of goth style since the early 1980s, partly from the look of bands like Siouxsie and the Banshees and partly from the movement's love of old churches and gothic architecture. For most people it's an aesthetic choice, not a religious one. Inverted crosses lean more metal than goth.

The ankh

An ancient Egyptian symbol for life. Goths picked it up in the 1980s and it spread further with vampire films and with Death from Neil Gaiman's The Sandman, who wears a silver ankh. It's one of the most popular goth pendants ever.

Bats, moons and stars

Bats are the scene's unofficial mascot. The Batcave, the London club that opened in 1982 and helped shape early goth, didn't hurt, and young goths are still lovingly called "baby bats." Crescent moons and stars lean witchy and pair well with whimsigoth looks.

Skulls and coffins

Memento mori, the old reminder that life is short, so enjoy it. Skull rings are a goth and metal staple, and tiny coffin charms are a playful take for people who like their spooky a little cute.

Pentagrams

A five-pointed star with roots in a lot of different traditions. Many Wiccans and pagans wear it as a protective symbol. It's popular with witchy goths, and it's also common in metal.

Snakes, spiders and poison rings

Snake rings go back to Victorian times and are still a favorite. Spiders and webs are pure goth fun. Poison rings, with a tiny hinged compartment, are a great conversation starter. Keep them empty.

Victorian mourning jewelry, the original goth jewelry

A lot of goth style borrows from Victorian mourning dress. After Prince Albert died in 1861, Queen Victoria wore black for the rest of her life, and mourning jewelry became a huge trend in Britain. Whitby jet, a shiny black fossilized wood from the coast of Yorkshire, was the material of choice. People also wore lockets, cameos and even jewelry woven from a loved one's hair.

Today you can find real antique jet and mourning pieces at antique fairs, and plenty of modern makers do jet-style pieces in black glass, onyx or resin. A cameo brooch pinned to a velvet ribbon is one of the easiest ways to look elegant and gothic at the same time.

Jewelry by goth style

Different goth styles have different go-to pieces. If you're still figuring out which one is you, our guide to the types of goth is a good place to start.

• Trad goth and deathrock: big silver crosses, ankhs, lots of bangles, studded leather cuffs, safety pins.
• Romantic and Victorian goth: cameos, lockets, lace chokers, drop earrings, antique gold or silver filigree.
• Punk and goth crossover: spikes, O-ring chokers, chains, padlock necklaces, studded belts.
• Cyber goth: UV-reactive pieces, industrial hardware, chunky plastic and metal.
• Witchy and whimsigoth: moons, stars, crystals, layered thin chains, lots of rings.
• Nu goth and minimal: one statement pendant, a simple choker, a few thin silver rings.

How to wear it without overdoing it

Pick one star of the show

If you're wearing a huge pendant, keep your earrings smaller. If your rings are the focus, go simpler around your neck. One big statement piece plus smaller supporting pieces almost always looks intentional.

Layer necklaces at different lengths

Try a choker, a medium chain with a small pendant, and one long chain. Three lengths look layered, not tangled.

Ring stacking

Mix chunky and thin. Spread rings across both hands instead of piling six on one finger. Skull rings look best on the middle or index finger where they get seen.

Match the metal, mostly

All silver or all antique gold looks the most polished. Mixing works too if you do it on purpose, like gold cameo plus silver chains.

Think about where you're going

For a show, skip long necklaces that can catch on someone in the pit, and leave the heirloom locket at home. Our mosh pit etiquette guide has more tips for surviving a heavy set in one piece.

Where to find goth jewelry you'll actually keep

• Antique shops and fairs. The best place for real cameos, lockets and old silver.
• Thrift stores and flea markets. Old costume jewelry bins are full of crosses, brooches and chains waiting for a second life.
• Independent makers. Small jewelers at goth markets, craft fairs and online shops make pieces you won't see on everyone else.
• Your own hands. Jump rings, chain and a few pendants are cheap, and making a choker takes about ten minutes. Check out goth on a budget for more DIY ideas.

Taking care of your pieces

• Take jewelry off before showers, pools and the gym.
• Store silver in a sealed bag or box so it tarnishes more slowly.
• Wipe with a polishing cloth instead of harsh dips, especially on pieces with stones or dark patina you want to keep.
• Check jump rings and clasps on chokers now and then. They're the first thing to break.

Show it off

Jewelry is a great way to say something about yourself before you even talk. A bat ring or a weird antique locket is basically an open invitation for someone to ask about it. If you want to share your favorite pieces with people who'll actually appreciate them, post them in Realm on Alt Chat, or build a whole look around them with our goth outfit ideas.

FAQ

What metal is best for goth jewelry?

Sterling silver and 316L stainless steel are the two safest bets. Silver looks classic and can be polished for decades, while stainless steel is cheap, tough and doesn't tarnish. If your skin reacts to cheap jewelry, look for nickel-free pieces.

Can goths wear gold jewelry?

Yes. Silver is the classic goth look, but antique gold, brass and dark rose gold work really well with Victorian, romantic and whimsigoth styles. Wear what you like.

What does an ankh mean in goth fashion?

The ankh is an ancient Egyptian symbol for life. It became a goth staple in the 1980s and 1990s, helped along by vampire films and by Death in Neil Gaiman's The Sandman comics, who wears one around her neck.

How do I stop goth jewelry from tarnishing?

Store silver in a small zip bag or a box with an anti-tarnish strip, take it off before showering or swimming, and wipe it with a polishing cloth now and then. A little darkening in the grooves can actually look great on detailed pieces.